Transparency, Not Taxonomy

Materials & Ingredients

Below is a master index of every raw material used in one of Chronotope’s perfume formulas. It’s a list that we make available not as a means of decoding our formulas, but simply for the sake of transparency.

Nor do we offer this list in order to differentiate between which materials are “natural” and which are “synthetic.” As hundreds, if not thousands, of scientists, historians, theorists, and philosophers across the globe have noted for decades, making such a distinction is not only philosophically unstable, it’s scientifically incoherent.

As Ann-Sophie Barwich, the cognitive neuroscientist, assistant professor of the history of science, and author of the 2020 book Smellosophy: What the Nose Tells the Mind, claims:

“I have to disagree with […] remarks about the ethical implications of using synthetic vs. natural smells, as this distinction plays into misconceptions about the nature of odor. The difference between natural and artificial smells is largely a historical one that separates pre- from post-synthetic chemistry.”

—Ann-Sophie Barwich

All matter, and especially all the fragrant matter that finds its way into perfume bottles—from North Indian vetiver to the finest Provençal lavender to synthetic oudh to Ambroxan—exists somewhere along a spectrum of cosmic, “natural” transformation and so-called “synthetic” human creation. But to insist upon a categorical distinction is false.

Mother Nature may grow and breed roses on her own, but she never does so in parallel rows as far as the eye can see. Likewise, she never plucks their petals for the sole purpose of boiling them to extract their fragrant oil. Even if the roses in question were organically farmed, surely much of their life process, as well as their afterlife, is entirely synthetic.

Likewise while Michelle Pfeiffer and Gwyneth Paltrow are iconic actresses, as perfume saleswomen, each has built a wellness empire selling fear about “chemicals” and “toxins.” They and countless other fragrance brandrunners who hawk “clean” perfumes and other “non-toxic” wares would prefer you never learn the realities outlined above because fear sells, misinformation sells more and faster, by the time the majority realize you’re scamming them, your company has already been sold off to the highest bidder, and right now, they’ve got products (including candles that smell like their own meow!) for you to buy. It’s more profitable to lie to you. You are worth more as a customer when you are misguided and confused.

<< A field of Bulgarian roses—perhaps even those used in Spite EdT

Chronotope would rather just tell the truth.

A fragrant material is added to a perfume for one reason and one reason only: because of how it smells. As such,a material’s degree of perceived natural-ness matters far less than the qualities of its sensory effects. What feelings a material’s scent evokes, what reminders of objects, people, places, and stories it can (and more commonly, cannot) contribute to compositions, and what wearing experience it provides once it’s applied to your skin, hair and clothing as part of a finished perfume formula are the key reasons that any material is ever added to a perfume.

A partial organ of select materials, in various states of dilution, laid out during the development stage of a new Chronotope perfume formula >>

To this end, the materials in the index below are organized, simply and plainly, by their scents, because their scents are what they contribute to Chronotope’s, as well as any other perfume brand’s, perfumes. Whether or not they are natural or synthetic is not factored into the index becasue the distinction was never considered as a first-order demand when the perfumes were composed.

There’s a simple reason for this. It is because the safety of any of the materials in the index is not based upon the distinction between their naturalness versus their synthetic nature—because when deployed in a formula with care and consideration to the health of the end user, they are all completely safe.

We urge you to remember that even water is lethal if too much of it enters your lungs. Cyanide is found in apples. And cancer is 100% naturally occurring. Risk assessment of anything, including of the materials used in perfumery, requires us to consider context and quantity.

Everything else is marketing.

Raw Materials Index →

Index Updated on 26 October 2025